Softwood cuttings, more plants for free
I find April the most uplifting month in the garden because plants are all growing at full throttle. It may seem that there is an endless list of gardening tasks to do, but as we get into this month it is worth making time to undertake some propagation. There is great joy in getting new plants for nothing and being able to share with friends or the plant stall for a worthy cause. Mid to late spring is the propagation season for soft wood cuttings. Some people shy away from propagation, and particularly taking cuttings because of failed experiences, but as with many things in gardening, a few key things to know will get you a long way. As we all know, in gardening too, there is no guarantee of success but all the more satisfaction when they do work.
Softwood cuttings are, as the name suggests, taken from soft new growth. And we’re talking here about shrubs and sub shrubs, woody or stiff stemmed perennials. Lavender is a great example, with Penstemon and Nepeta, pictured opposite. You may have overwintered Pelargoniums or starter Dahlia tubers into growth and id if they’re getting a bit leggy you can pinch them back to create a bushier parent plant and you use the offcuts for soft wood cuttings. The reason that this is such a good time of year to take cuttings is all to do with that rapid surge of growth and the plant hormones that cause it. Research shows that the faster a shoot has grown, even if it grew a couple of months ago, then the faster roots develop from one of the nodes. So that rapid new growth in spring is much more likely to strike successfully, giving the plant a much greater chance of success. Water and nutrients can be taken up through those new roots to balance water that is being lost through the leaves.
As you probably know, if you have tried or read up on taking cuttings before, any plant growth only happens at the point of a stem where there is a node. This is where you will see buds or leaves developing and if you pick the leaves off, you will see there is a little ring around a solid little plate across the soft stem. That little plate is the only place where new cells develop whether that is to produce buds, leaves or roots. When you prepare a cutting, you cut off the stem just below the node so there is no long piece of stem dangling below that that will simply rot off straight away in the damp compost. Strip the bottom leaves off, keeping 2 or 3 at the top to photosynthesise and pop it into free draining peat free compost. Interestingly most cuttings seem to root more easily against the wall of the pot rather than in the centre. You can have 3 or 4 or even more in a pot depending on the size of the pot and the size of the cutting but ensure that air can circulate around the leaves.
Keeping them watered is a delicate balance between over watering so they rot and underwatering so they dry out and die, so check daily at first. A cover or even a polythene bag over the pot can help in the early days but do watch for too much condensation and mould forming. All plants need light and warmth to grow so place the pot in an unheated greenhouse or on a window sill, and with care within a month or six weeks you will have little white roots appearing at the bottom. Resist the temptation to tip the plantlets out of the pot too soon – the new roots are very fine and easily broken if you have to put it all back! You can check by watering the pot lightly and then carefully turning it upside down. If you see roots then you can split and pot on the new plants for transplanting into the garden in the autumn. Some of the overwintered half hardies like Pelargoniums grow on much more quickly so you will get flowering plants for the coming summer. What could be more satisfying?
Happy Gardening from Alison